Maytag fridge clicking noise not cooling cheap PTC relay fix

Maytag fridge clicking noise not cooling cheap PTC relay fix

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Maytag Fridge Clicking Noise Not Cooling? Cheap PTC Relay Fix That Actually Works

I’ve pulled the back panel off more refrigerators than I can count, but the call I remember most vividly was a panicked homeowner who’d already quoted a $600 compressor replacement from a big-box appliance guy — all because of a $12 part. The fridge was clicking every few minutes, not cooling, and the compressor felt hot to the touch. Classic. I’ve seen this exact pattern dozens of times, and nine out of ten, it’s the PTC relay — not the compressor — that’s failed. If you’re dealing with a Maytag fridge clicking noise not cooling cheap PTC relay fix situation, you’re in the right place.

What That Clicking Sound Actually Means

That rapid clicking or repeating click-hum-click pattern coming from your Maytag refrigerator is almost always the compressor trying — and failing — to start. The PTC (Positive Temperature Coefficient) relay is the start assist device for the compressor, and when it fails, the compressor can’t get enough current to kick on.

Here’s the thing: the compressor isn’t the problem in most of these cases. It’s trying to start, getting overloaded, tripping its thermal overload protector, shutting off, cooling down, and then trying again — which produces that clicking cycle you hear every 2 to 5 minutes. The fridge won’t cool because the compressor never actually runs long enough to build refrigerant pressure.

The PTC relay sits directly on the compressor’s side pins. It’s a small, often rattling component — literally the size of a domino. Shake it next to your ear. If you hear something rattling inside, that relay is burned and needs to go.

Real talk: a failed relay left running through that click cycle will eventually cook a compressor that was otherwise perfectly healthy. Don’t let it sit.

Diagnosing the PTC Relay on a Maytag Refrigerator

Before you order anything, spend five minutes confirming the diagnosis so you’re not throwing parts at a problem that’s actually a sealed system failure or a bad overload protector.

Pull the fridge away from the wall and unplug it. Remove the lower rear access panel — on most Maytag bottom-freezer and top-freezer models, this is held by four to six quarter-inch hex screws. The compressor is the black dome-shaped component. The PTC relay plugs into the side of it, usually covered by a clip or a small bracket.

Remove the relay and shake it. Burned relays rattle. But don’t stop there — use a multimeter set to ohms. Measure resistance across the relay terminals. A good PTC relay will show continuity when cold (roughly 5–30 ohms depending on the model). An open circuit reading means it’s dead. A shorted reading (zero ohms) also means it’s failed — in a different way, but equally useless.

Worth noting: if the relay tests good but the compressor still won’t start after you reinstall it, test the overload protector separately. That’s a different $8 part clipped next to the relay. This depends on whether the compressor hums at all. If you hear a hum with no click and no start, the overload is more likely the culprit. If you hear nothing or only clicking, stay focused on the relay.

The Maytag Fridge Clicking Noise Not Cooling Cheap PTC Relay Fix — Step by Step

This is the actual repair — not just the diagnosis. The entire job takes under 30 minutes with basic tools and costs between $8 and $20 depending on whether you buy OEM or a quality aftermarket part.

First, identify your compressor model number. It’s stamped on a label on the compressor body itself or on the refrigerator’s model tag (inside the fridge on the side wall). Cross-reference that number to find the correct PTC relay. Maytag models commonly use compressors from Embraco and Secop — both have readily available relay replacements on RepairClinic or Amazon.

Here’s the fix, step by step:

  • Unplug the refrigerator. Non-negotiable. You’re working near a compressor start circuit.
  • Remove the rear access panel (lower back of the fridge).
  • Locate the PTC relay on the side of the compressor — it’s the small plug-in component, sometimes inside a plastic housing.
  • Pull the relay straight off the compressor pins. It may be snug. Wiggle it gently.
  • Shake and test as described above.
  • Plug in the new relay in the same orientation. It’s keyed so it only goes one way.
  • Reinstall the panel, plug in the fridge, and listen. You should hear the compressor hum steadily within 5–10 minutes (after the start delay timer cycles).

The quick fix is the relay swap. The permanent fix includes also replacing the overload protector at the same time since both are cheap and removing the compressor cover twice to do it separately isn’t worth your time.

Maytag fridge clicking noise not cooling cheap PTC relay fix

Here’s What I’ve Seen Go Wrong

Twenty years of field work means I’ve seen every way this repair gets botched — and a few scenarios where the relay swap doesn’t fix anything.

The biggest mistake I see is people buying the wrong relay. They look up their Maytag fridge model and order a relay that matches the fridge — but the relay has to match the compressor model, not the fridge. Two Maytag fridges with different compressors won’t use the same relay. Always pull the compressor model number directly from the compressor tag.

Second common mistake: reinstalling the relay backwards. Some relays aren’t obviously keyed and can be forced in the wrong way. If it goes in but the fridge still clicks, pull it, flip it 180 degrees, reinstall, and test again.

Here’s the thing: if you replace the relay, the fridge compressor runs, but the fridge still doesn’t cool down to temperature within 4–6 hours, you may have a refrigerant leak or a failed start capacitor on a model that uses one. At that point, the diagnosis shifts and you need a Section 608 certified technician to handle refrigerant work. That’s not a DIY repair — it’s federal law.

For guidance on deeper appliance troubleshooting logic that goes beyond the relay, that resource will take you further down the diagnostic tree.

If the compressor is genuinely failed — hot, locked up, or drawing locked-rotor amperage — the relay won’t save it. In that case, the $600 compressor quote isn’t wrong, it’s just that a compressor replacement on a budget fridge often doesn’t make financial sense.

OEM vs. Aftermarket PTC Relay — Which One to Buy

This is a real decision point and it depends entirely on how long you intend to keep the appliance.

This depends on the age of your Maytag and your budget. If you’re running a fridge that’s under 7 years old and otherwise in good shape, buy OEM — it’ll be $15–$20 and will match the compressor’s specifications exactly. If you’re keeping an older fridge running on a shoestring, a quality aftermarket relay (check that it matches the compressor wattage and pin configuration) will work fine and runs $8–$12.

Practically speaking, the quality gap between OEM and reputable aftermarket relays is smaller than manufacturers want you to believe. The key word is reputable — avoid no-name listings with no specifications listed. If the seller can’t tell you what compressor models the relay is compatible with, skip it.

Summary Comparison Table

Factor PTC Relay Failure Overload Protector Failure Compressor Failure
Symptom Clicking every 2–5 min, no cooling Hum, no start, or no sound No start, hot body, tripped breaker
Part Cost $8–$20 $5–$15 $200–$600+
DIY Difficulty Easy Easy Not recommended / requires certification
Repair Time 20–30 minutes 20–30 minutes 2–4 hours professional
Fix Confirm Time 4–6 hours cooling 4–6 hours cooling Immediate compressor run

The Bottom Line

Stop paying diagnostic fees and compressor quotes before you’ve replaced a $12 PTC relay.

If your Maytag fridge is clicking and not cooling, the PTC relay is the single most likely cause — statistically and practically. It’s a 30-minute repair that requires no refrigerant handling, no special certifications, and less mechanical skill than changing a car battery. Buy the relay matched to your compressor model, not just your fridge model, and replace the overload protector at the same time while you’re already back there. If the fridge runs after the relay swap but still won’t cool, that’s when you call a 608-certified tech for a sealed system check. But nine times out of ten, you won’t need to.

If you only do one thing after reading this, shake that relay next to your ear before you do anything else.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know for sure the PTC relay is bad on my Maytag fridge?

Shake the relay — a rattling sound inside confirms it’s burned. Confirm with a multimeter: set to ohms and measure across the terminals. An open circuit (no reading) or a zero-ohm short means the relay has failed and needs replacement.

Can I run my Maytag fridge without the PTC relay temporarily?

No. The compressor cannot start without the relay — it won’t have the current boost needed to overcome startup inertia. Running the fridge in this state risks burning out the overload protector and, eventually, the compressor windings. Order the part and don’t run it until it’s replaced.

My Maytag fridge is still clicking after I replaced the PTC relay — what now?

First, confirm the relay is seated correctly on the compressor pins. Then test the overload protector separately — it’s the other small component clipped next to the relay. If both parts test good and the compressor still won’t run, the compressor itself has likely failed mechanically or electrically, which requires a certified technician to assess.

References

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